Your First Mechanical Keyboard

Buy a finished keyboard. Do not start with a kit, a group buy, or a soldering iron.

Three decisions matter: layout, switch type, and whether you need wireless.

Layout

• 75% — the default. Arrows, F-row, no numpad. Get this unless you have a reason not to.
• TKL (80%) — full function row, familiar. Better if you hate learning new key spots.
• 65% — smaller, more layers. Fine after you know you like mechanical switches.
• Full size — only if you live in Excel.

Switches, kept simple

• Linear — smooth. Gaming default. Quiet-ish if you do not bottom out hard.
• Tactile — a bump. Better for typing for a lot of people.
• Clicky — loud on purpose. Skip it in an office.
• Silent linear — work from home next to other people.
• Hall Effect — wait until you know you want rapid trigger.

Hot-swap is worth having on a first board. You can change switches later without soldering.

Budget lanes

Under $80: EPOMAKER x AULA EA75 Max for a 75%, or TH65 if they want smaller.

Around $100: EPOMAKER TH80 V2 Pro if they want a TKL with a screen, or Keychron K2 Max if they want QMK wireless and a brand they will keep.

Over $180: wait until you know layout and switch preference. A Keychron Q1 HE is a strong second board, not a required first.

Wireless

Tri-mode (2.4 GHz + Bluetooth + USB) is normal now. Use 2.4 GHz for games. Use Bluetooth for a laptop. Keep a cable on the desk anyway.

Skip these on keyboard one

• Barebones kits and “you have to lube it”
• 40% and split boards
• Screen-first gimmick boards unless you already want the rest of the keyboard
• Buying by RGB

One-line answers

• Programming on a laptop, want a real keyboard → 75%, tactile or silent linear, wireless
• Office, shared room → silent linear TKL or 75%
• Games plus Discord, budget → EA75 Max
• Games, already sure about rapid trigger → read the magnetic keyboard guide and compare K2 HE with HE75 V2 TMR